In Agia Paraskevi and Lepetymnos, Krinellia Organics and Kariofyllis Farm reveal a different side of the island—one rooted in nature, local production and the people who keep both alive.

On Lesvos, the landscape never remains a mere backdrop. It becomes the scent of pennyroyal and the tart taste of aronia, mingles with the sea breeze moving through the olive groves, and gathers a soundtrack of whinnies and children’s laughter.

If you want to discover the island beyond its beaches and villages, two places deserve a spot on your itinerary: Krinellia Organics, near Kalloni, and Kariofyllis Farm, on the slopes of Mount Lepetymnos. The first is peaceful, fragrant and almost meditative; the second is lively, sociable and full of movement. Behind both are people who left very different careers to create something new on the land of Lesvos.

You arrive out of curiosity and leave with herbs, jams or honey in your luggage. More importantly, you come away feeling that you know the island a little better, through the people turning its traditions into contemporary, meaningful experiences.

Krinellia Organics: Lesvos in a Cup

I find Vaso and Kostas harvesting pennyroyal. Its cool, persistent fragrance clings to their hands and drifts through the air. In Agia Paraskevi, close to Kalloni, Krinellia Organics is more than an organic farm devoted to aromatic and medicinal plants. It is a place where you can follow the entire journey of a herb, from soil to cup.

The story began in 2012, with a small botanical garden Vaso planted after returning to Lesvos from her studies. She came from the field of International and European Studies, while Kostas had trained as an electronics engineer. With no farming background, they learned through study and experimentation. In 2019, they turned their shared interest into a visitor-friendly farm based on organic cultivation and regenerative principles.

Among the oregano, calendula, yarrow, lemon balm and pennyroyal, one plant stands out as Krinellia’s signature: Sideritis sipylea. This rare species of mountain tea grows in the northeastern Aegean and along the opposite coast of Asia Minor. To cultivate it, Vaso and Kostas collected seeds from Mount Olympus near Agiasos, propagated them and established a crop at an altitude of around 700 metres.

A visit to Krinellia begins with a slow walk through the fields. You touch the plants, learn to recognise their aromas and see how they are dried and processed. Afterwards, you sit down for a guided tasting of three or five herbal infusions, depending on your chosen experience, paired with produce from Lesvos. Somewhere between the tastings, you discover how dramatically the character of a herb can change with the right water temperature and steeping time.

The pace here is deliberately unhurried. The farm occasionally hosts yoga, Pilates and other wellness activities, yet even a simple visit feels like a lesson in slowing down. By the time you leave, herbs no longer seem like forgotten packets at the back of a cupboard. They become an invitation to create a small daily ritual: a few quiet minutes and a brief return to nature.

Bio Aronia – Kariofyllis Farm: A Place Full of Flavour and Life

As the road climbs towards Lepetymnos, on the slopes of Lesvos’s highest mountain, the fragrance of herbs gives way to the sounds of the farm. A peacock fans its tail, a pony wanders over in search of affection and the goats wait impatiently for their next treat. At Kariofyllis Farm, the animals are not exhibits observed from a distance: they move through open spaces and meet visitors up close.

Giorgos Kariofyllis returned to the island in 2012 and began almost from scratch, with a small plot that had belonged to his grandfather and a handful of animals. With no family farm or ready-made plan, he searched for a crop with potential and chose aronia, also known as chokeberry—a tart fruit then little known in Greece that adapted well to the area’s mountain climate and plentiful water.

Before long, he began processing the fruit himself and created Bio Aronia Lesvos, a range of jams, dried berries, herbal infusions and other products that gave the farm its own distinctive flavour.

Over the years, the small farm expanded and became a refuge for dozens of animals, several of which arrived after being abandoned, injured or mistreated. Deer, goats, ponies, ducks, geese, peacocks and pheasants form a small society in which each animal has its own character and habits. Some constantly seek affection, others keep their distance, while a few boldly compete for your attention.

For families, this is one of the island’s most enjoyable stops. Children can approach and feed the animals while learning about their behaviour and needs. The farm also places particular importance on educational activities for children with disabilities, who experience the space through touch, sound and close contact with the animals.

The visit ends around the table. At the farm café, the flavours are deliberately local: homemade savoury pies, wines and beers from Lesvos, island-produced soft drinks, sheep’s-milk ice cream from Mesotopos and, of course, aronia products. Behind this choice lies the idea of a small circular economy, in which every purchase helps support another local producer.

The animals may be the first reason you come, but the aronia, the flavours and Giorgos’s story are what ultimately give the visit its depth. Kariofyllis Farm is more than a cheerful family outing: it is an introduction to a Lesvos that continues to produce, care and share.

Info

Krinellia Organics: Agia Paraskevi, Lesvos. Two organised herbal experiences are available, lasting 1.5 and 2.5 hours, for small groups and with advance booking. krinelliaorganics.com

Kariofyllis Farm – Kariofyllis Eco Farm: Lepetymnos, Lesvos. Visits are available by prior arrangement. Tel. +30 6979 458991. More information via Open Farm

Activities and availability vary with the season, so contact both farms before visiting.