A timeless culinary landmark in Athens

There are a few places in Athens that feel almost like sanctuaries—spots you return to in order to taste time itself. Not in the sense of nostalgia, but of continuity. The Taverna of Oikonomou in Ano Petralona is one such place: steady, unpretentious, a solid foundation in the heart of a city that is always in flux.

Housed in a 1918 building, the restaurant looks more like an old family home than a business. Whitewashed walls, straw chairs, heavy wooden tables, and silkscreens by renowned Greek painters (Psychopedis, Fassianos, Stathopoulos) create an understated charm. There is no music, no mood lighting—just a small corner library filled with the works of essayist and thinker Kostis Papagiorgis, who once had his regular seat there. Tourists come to taste the essence of traditional food without embellishments, while locals return to relive the flavors of homemade meals they grew up with.

Signature Ladera & Stews

That is why the menu is led by vegetable stews and slow-cooked classics. The famed cabbage dolmades, beef in tomato sauce, rabbit stifado, rooster braised in wine, and daily legume specialties (like fava or giant beans). Also memorable: the keftedakia (meatballs) and perfectly fried eggplants. Tzatziki and tyrokafteri are made with handmade yogurt, while all produce comes from small-scale farmers. The bread—an absolute masterpiece—arrives from Kora Bakery.

For decades, Mrs. Garoufalia Gikopouli has been in the kitchen. Not a chef in the modern sense, but a “cook of the old school,” who knows how to prepare dishes that speak straight to the heart. Recently, the reins passed to Philippos Tsagkridis, who has preserved the philosophy intact while breathing new life into it—mainly by upgrading the ingredients and, above all, by introducing an impressive wine list.

Wine: 100+ Greek Labels

Curated by Vassilis Bakasis, the list features exclusively Greek wines, mostly low-intervention and natural, at exceptionally fair prices. From Tetramythos’ Roditis Nature to Thymiopoulos’ Xinomavro Kaïafas 2018, the wines are not just accompaniments but a statement of the taverna’s philosophy. More than 100 labels cover every mood and style—from Vassaltis’ natural Pet-Nat to Oikonomou’s profound white from Sitia, to name just a few.

What kind of outing is it for?
For those who love Greek cuisine without frills. For meals with friends who appreciate reliability and quality. For family gatherings, or solitary philosophers who want to linger over a plate of bean soup and a glass of rosé. For any day when you crave flavors that ground you.

What could be better?
If there’s a weak spot, it’s the desserts. The portokalopita was dry, and the custard in the galaktoboureko thin, with pastry that lacked the care found elsewhere on the menu.

Tip: Papagiorgis’ table
If you are a wine lover, ask to be guided toward one of the list’s “hidden gems.” And with a bit of luck, you might sit at Papagiorgis’ old table—where words, food, and time once came together like an ancient ritual. As for prices, they are refreshingly modest: €6–8 for starters, €12–14 for mains, and €20–35 for most bottles of wine.

Address: 32 Kydantidon & 41 Troon, Ano Petralona, Athens
Reservations: +30 210 3467555
Opening hours: Daily, 13:00–01:00
Prices: €25–35 per person (without wine), €40–60 with a bottle