French cuisine in Greece has always carried a certain prestige—as if it arrives with a promise of crisp white linen, butter that gleams on the plate, and the chance to enjoy a truly good glass of red
Athens is forever on the hunt for its next French haunt, but few places manage to keep the romance alive beyond the first impression. Brasserie Lorraine, on the corner of Spefsippou and Glykōnos, has been steadily building that relationship since it opened in 2020—first under the direction of Panagiotis Zokos, and now with Ilias Dimelis at the helm, picking up the thread of the kitchen and carrying it forward in his own rhythm.
You step past the heavy velvet curtain at the entrance and leave Dexameni Square behind. In front of you, a bright marble-topped bar; behind it, an impressive, softly lit wine fridge. Shelves packed with bottles set the tone immediately. Mirrors, rose-patterned wallpaper in full bloom, green velvet armchairs, candles and low lighting create a scene that feels lifted from an old Parisian film—you half expect the next scene to be shot around you.
Lorraine’s kitchen has a French soul, without pretending to be a temple of haute gastronomie. You’ll find the classics, often with a contemporary nod. It doesn’t chase the millimetre-perfect plate—though at times you might wish for a touch more boldness or intensity—but overall it delivers what it promises: French brasserie dishes in a setting that makes you want to linger.
Among the starters, the onion soup arrives with a rich beef broth, caramelised onions with just the right sweetness, melted Comté forming a faintly elastic crust, and crisp croutons that break beautifully under the spoon. It’s the kind of dish that smells like “winter in Paris.”
The beef tartare is finely cut, well-textured and served at the right temperature. Capers jam adds a sweet-and-sour, sea-kissed lift, smoked mayonnaise brings depth, and charred country bread works as the crunchy base that ties everything together.
Lighter and nicely balanced, the green salad with goat’s cheese and pear features crisp leaves, thin pear slices for gentle sweetness, a goat’s cheese with mild acidity, and a dressing that never overwhelms the ingredients.
A standout is the warm foie gras, seared to a delicate crust while remaining creamy within. Rustic date jam brings sweetness with an almost Eastern nuance, pickled quince adds brightness and acidity, and the handmade brioche—airy and buttery—acts as a soft “pillow” for the liver.
On the seafood side, the fresh scallops (when you catch them at their best) are nicely seared, with a lightly caramelised surface and a juicy centre, while the Burgundy snails come with the classic parsley-garlic crust—a comfort dish in true brasserie style.
For mains, the duck breast with red fruit compote and cedar-scented duck sauce keeps a rosy core and strikes a pleasing balance between sweetness and the meat’s savoury intensity.
For red-meat lovers, Lorraine plays confidently: côte de bœuf, Chateaubriand, entrecôte—generous cuts, properly cooked, with brasserie staples on the side: silky mashed potatoes, crisp fries, green salad, asparagus, mushrooms à la crème, and well-executed sauces like béarnaise, poivre and café de Paris. On the fish front, the fresh sole meunière is one of those dishes that fully justifies butter’s revered place in French cooking.
To finish, the almond clafoutis with red fruits and a cherry-liqueur-scented cream arrives warm and fragrant, with juicy fruit and a tender, aromatic batter.
Service is one of Brasserie Lorraine’s greatest strengths: professional and well-informed, yet genuinely warm. The sommelier moves confidently through a list that gives strong emphasis to French labels, without ignoring a few intriguing American options. We enjoyed a Cabernet Sauvignon The Federalist 66 from California, which quickly earned a spot on our favourites list. Beyond the main selection, there is also a “gold” list of rare bottles in the high three-digit range—for those who want the evening to feel truly collectible.
All in all, Brasserie Lorraine is one of the few places in Athens where the promise of a “French brasserie” translates into an atmosphere that genuinely transports you—into a night with an unmistakably Parisian pulse.
Brasserie Lorraine
Spefsippou & Glykōnos 2, Athens | Tel.: 211 1082920
