Like all islands, they are followed by some rumors, so for Folegandros they say that you have to go in love. It was on my list for years, until in May 2016 the time came to verify its reputation and close like a frame, one of the most romantic getaways, on my personal travel map.

Small islands have something liberating. And Folegandros is one of them. With an area of ​​just 32 square kilometers and 700 permanent residents, it summarizes in a pocket-sized package everything you expect from the Cycladic landscape and in a few hours it manages to get rid of everything unnecessary you carry from the city and fall in love with it, falling victim to its charm.

Arid, with rocks and rugged “unruly” beauty, it is located in the middle of the sea, next to Sikinos and Milos and under the strong Aegean sun that makes the happiest people happy.

Okay, it is not the island of the barren line, since in recent years it has experienced remarkable development, but especially if you go out of season, you will feel more nature, rather than human presence.

You can easily get around it. A car is not necessary, at least not all the days of your stay, as long as you are willing to walk a lot and calculate the day’s program based on the routes of the local magic bus, which connects the three settlements of the island: Port-Town-Ano Meria.

Folegandros Town is a doll. Careful with clean and whitewashed alleys, white houses with colorful windows and doors and elegant shops with beautiful signs made by hand. Beauty, atmosphere, authenticity, relaxation and a little… cosmopolitanism, in a wonderful balance, they drag you to forget yourself in its beautiful cafes, with a book in hand or playing one game of backgammon after another. Check out the zen atmosphere in Pontios as soon as you enter the first square and the cafe “Arakse” of Stratos, in the square in front of the Castle, which is famous for its handmade sweets.

From the edge of the vertical rock in Chora you will see a breathtaking view, which resembles the Caldera of Santorini and perhaps wilder at times. This open landscape is ideal for a few moments of personal recharge, where the endless blue makes you feel insignificant, but also important for facing it.

Sooner or later, the walk takes you to the neighborhood of Kastro, which has been continuously inhabited since the Middle Ages until today. You pass Paraporti and you emerge… into another era. The buildings are the outer walls of the Venetian castle that was built to protect against pirate and other attacks. I am always captivated by castles that are simple houses inside, a shack. I think about what it would be like to live, perched under a roof, close to other houses.

The path that leads to Panagia ends spectacularly at the edge of the vertical rock and gazes at the Aegean. The climb to Panagia with the characteristic winding path is a must. You will be out of breath, you will sweat, but it is worth it. The view from above is unparalleled and the sunset is one of the images you will remember for the rest of your life.

The landscape in Ano Mera, which is the most simple and rural settlement on the island, takes you back in time. Here, the traffic on the roads peaks when a line of donkeys loaded with straw make their way back from the field. All around you see “lemon houses” (the houses that protected the lemon trees, the only source of vitamins for the island’s inhabitants in the past), two or three grocery stores, corresponding taverns and a bakery for the necessary supplies.

We stayed at Notos, a complex of stone houses that have something modest and convenient, without pretentious extravagance, which remind you that you are here to get rid of everything unnecessary. The simple decoration allows only what is strictly necessary. A small kitchen, a stone-built bed, a few necessary furniture and a veranda where you want to spend the rest of your life. If you are lucky and book your stay here in time.

Food on the balcony overlooking the sunset and the bare slopes covered in oregano and thyme, the tallest plants in the Cyclades, as they jokingly say, since its arid landscape is constantly burned by the sun and only in the evening is it cooled by the north wind that succeeds the day’s heat.

If you don’t cook at home, in Folegandros the wonderful homemade food is not the exception. In fact, it has choices, from taverns with completely mom-made food, to fine restaurants. Matsata (local handmade pasta) served with rooster, meatballs, or rabbit is a hit. The local menu also has chickpeas in clay, lemon and braised goat, karavolous (stewed snails), kalasouna (pie with onions and cheese) and stewed capers. For sweets, karpouzenia (pie with honey and sesame) is the the local watermelon dessert that you must try!

Beaches with demands! Although it is a short island, the beaches have… their effort. To reach the most beautiful ones, you need to walk or take a boat. One of the most idyllic is Katergo, with fine pebbles and delicious turquoise waters. A relaxing suggestion is Karavostasis, the quiet harbor of the island, with the beautiful reddish rocks in its background.

An amazing beach is Agali and next to it is the beach of Agios Nikolaos, where you have to walk about a quarter of an hour to reach. Fortunately, however, it has a nice elevated cafe to quench your thirst before diving into the beautiful waters.

Evenings in Folegandros taste like rakomelo and teenage joy. The necessary bar crawl in the narrow streets of Chora reveals shops, such as “Astarti” and “Rakentia” which specialize in rakomelo.